Process

The many parts of the natural dyeing process.

Making Natural Dyes

Fabrics

Fabrics used in natural dyeing need to be non-synthetic. These are either protein fibres- fabrics that come from animals like silk and wool or cellulose fibres- fabrics that comes from plants like cotton and linen.

Preparing

For fabric to evenly hold colour the fabrics need to be thoroughly cleaned. This is a two part process. Firstly, the fabric needs to be cleaned with an neutral soap without lots of added chemicals. Then it needs to be ‘scoured’ which is the process of heating the fabric in water, boiling it to remove deep dirt and chemicals.

Mordants

A mordant is the ‘glue’ that holds the colour to the fibres. Different mordants can be used with common ones like vinegar, soy milk, aluminum. Different mordants work better for different fabrics and colours, so practise and experimenting is key.

Creating Dyes

Things used to create natural dye are called ‘dyestuff’. Dyestuff can be found, foraged, grown or even be food waste. Common dyestuff include marigolds flowers, leaves, onion skins, tea and petals.

Dyeing

To extract the dye most dyestuff can be heated, the water strained and then used as you would a chemical dye. The process is eco friendly, so the wastewater can be put down sinks or even in your garden.

Caring

Caring for fabrics that have been naturally dyed takes a little more attention. They can be washed in the washing machine on a low heat, but you should use eco friendly detergents like ecover. Fabrics should be stored out of direct sunlight. If the colour fades they can be redyed in the future.

Food Waste

I have spent time dyeing with food waste which is an easily accessible dyeing method in the UK. I have focused on avocados, onion skins and rosemary. With rosemary and onion skins in particular being incredibly sustainable as they can be grown easily in our gardens in England. Avocado skins and stones, although need to be flown in from hotter countries, are still an incredible source for dyeing in the UK. We consume a lot of avocados so if you’re already using avocados in your diet then there is suddenly this wonderful material to collect for a dye bath. I collect food waste from my cooking, like keeping the skins and stones from my avocados, the skins of all onions and I used rosemary grown in my small garden.

Screen Prints

I have been able to develop my process of screen printing with natural dyes to use a fully sustainable and natural screen printing process. By creating a paste from a mordant like aluminium sulphate or iron and mixing this with guar gum (a cooking ingredient similar to flour), I was able to screen print my designs with mordant. After setting the prints using a ‘bran bath’ and then dyeing with natural dyes the dye clings to the screen printing mordant and washes out of the rest of the fabric leaving the design.

Bundle Dyeing

Bundle dyeing involves creating a rolled piece of fabric that has dyestuff (flowers, leaves, food waste) enclosed.

After being tightly bound the bundle is then steamed and th dyestuff release the colour and pattern onto the fabric. It is a way to create watercolor esque pattern and colour on fabric.

Forgaing

Seeking sustainable methods for dye collection, I embarked on foraging expeditions to gather natural dyestuffs. Intrigued by the ecological benefits and creative possibilities, I ventured to Sudley Park in Liverpool to harvest fallen pine leaves. These botanical treasures, abundant in their seasonal transition, offered a renewable resource for dye extraction. Through experimentation, I harnessed the diverse shades of grey hidden within the foliage, employing bundle dyeing techniques to imbue textiles with subtle yet enchanting tones. This journey into foraging not only enriched my understanding of sustainable practices but also inspired a deeper connection to the natural world, where every fallen leaf became a canvas for artistic expression.